Long Weekend in Mallorca

First things first: Mallorca or Majorca? Given every Spaniard under the sun pronounces it "Mallorca", we're going to have to with the former. As for the latter, you can thank the Brits, who can't roll their R's or pronounce their AYs. You're welcome. 

Now, getting down to business: Memorial Day Weekend is one of our favorite times to travel. Not only is it the unofficial start of summer, but it's also our wedding anniversary. What better excuse to get away? 

With ticket prices the lowest we've seen them, we scooped up two seats on an Iberia BOS to MAD flight Wednesday after work. The flight itself was super short, but Mallorca requires a connection. Pro tip: give yourself at least two hours for the connection. We did not and regretted it. Not only did Customs not show up for 25 minutes, but we ended up sprinting barefoot through the terminals only to be the last to board. We also had to cut some people in line. Not our finest hour but I digress. 

Although mildly more chill than Ibiza, Mallorca is still a party island. Especially in and around Palma. When we arrived at the airport, we were welcomed by the smell of salt water and a slew of hen parties in matching t-shirts. Nothing against bachelorettes, but we were in the market for a more relaxed weekend. 

Fortunately, we booked the Park Hyatt Mallorca, which is located a little under an hour away from Palma de Mallorca, on the east side of the island. It was everything we had hoped for and more. The property is immaculate and the service is the epitome of Park Hyatt. More to come on that later. 

Although we had every intention of going back into town to explore Palma, we never got around to it. And to be honest, we didn't miss it one bit. Instead, we explored some of the smaller towns and enjoyed every minute.

Where my beaches at?

Our first day was spent lounging by the pool, warding off jetlag.

On day two, we were ready for some adventure.  We drove south to the town of Santanyí to explore.  Luckily, we stumbled upon Cala Santanyí, from which we hiked over to the Es Pontas arch. The town of Santanyí is also very cute. We explored a bit before ducking in for some lunch. Our waiter recommended the beach at the Mondragó Natural Park, which is where we spent the rest of the lazy afternoon. Surprisingly, neither of us took a picture, but trust us when we say it was one of the prettiest beaches we’ve ever seen. Think inlets surrounded by cliffs, with the most pristine water you’ve ever seen.

The next day, we drove into town to see Capdepera, starting at the Castle of Capdepera. Dating back to the Romans with a violent history of its own, this fortress was impressive. There was even an archaeological dig happening while we were visiting, making things even more exciting. I mean who doesn’t dream of being an anthropologist when they’re a little kid? And no, I don’t mean the retail variety.  

After a leisurely breakfast in town, we drove 20 minutes north to Artá. Every Saturday, the town welcomes artists, bakers and farmers. This is the perfect place to shop for souvenirs or sample the local fare. After browsing through various stalls, we decided to hike up to Santuari de Sant Salvador, another medieval fortress.  The views from Sant Salvador were spectacular and well worth the trek up the hill.

Once we had a chance to take in all the views, we headed back down Carrer de Ciutat, ducking into shops along the way. We also enjoyed a leisurely lunch, which you can read about below.

For our last day, we tried mightily to rent a boat for the day. Unfortunately, Sundays book up far in advance. TIP: Don’t wait til the last minute to do this! It’s the best way to see some of the hidden beaches.

Instead, our concierge recommended her favorite beach, Son Serra de Marina. The beach was lovely, with surrounding views of the mountains and full of families enjoying their Sunday together. We were the only Americans, something we generally take pride in. There are a few little restaurants in Es Fondo de na Borges by the beach if you’re in need of lunch.  We tried some fried anchovies and paella at Lago – muy bien.

Comida por favore  

Porxada de Sa Torre was one of our favorite dinners of the trip. It’s a great value, especially when compared to Park Hyatt prices. Located at the Torre de Canyamel, this restaurant is famous for its traditional Majorcan cuisine and historic view. Tim ordered their most famous dish, the suckling pig, while I had the local bass. Both were outstanding, despite us over ordering on the first course. Did someone say chorizo? TIP: This is just outside of walking distance from the hotel (down a dark, windy road). We ordered a taxi as we wanted to enjoy some wine and it was €30. Although we were being responsible, we really wish we had just driven in lieu of wine.

Restaurant Es Taronger in Artà was another good find. We came here for lunch and enjoyed a few cervezas and tapas, along with some respite from the heat. If you’re in the area, it’s definitely worth a visit!

The dining options at the Park Hyatt were excellent. In fact, we ate at the Tapas Bar twice. It was worth it. The farm egg and pork neck were two of the most notable dishes.

Honorable mention: Cap Vermell. Although a bit dated, this place overlooks the Mediterranean. Mix in the Spanish guitars softly strumming softly while you sip Majorcan wine doesn’t hurt either. Truth be told, I found this place a bit average, but Tim seemed to like it. I think it was all the wine talking. If you do go, ask for a table by the water and get there on the earlier side (by Spanish standards). We ordered the fixed menu, which was happily accommodated to Tim’s shellfish allergy. However, the veal was served well done. THE HORROR!!!!!

The logistics  

If you’re heading to the Park Hyatt, make sure you rent a car. As I mentioned, it’s about an hour from the Palma Airport. It’s also great for getting around to the lesser known towns and beaches.

We rented an automatic from Enterprise for about €55 a day, including GPS. Although we had to wait an hour for our car to be ready, it was smooth sailing from there. The GPS came in handy many times and the Euro cross-over met our needs.

When connecting in Madrid, make sure to give yourself ample time to get to the terminal. Keep in mind you’ll need to not only go through customs, but also through security. Plus, the airport is massive. We made the mistake of giving ourselves an hour. It was the most stressful connection we’ve ever had, but luckily it worked out. I did lose a bracelet in the process, which was super sad.

We ended up doing four nights in Mallorca, which may seem insane. However, it was surprisingly relaxing! Plus, we used the points and cash rate at the Park Hyatt to score a great room deal. That, with the cheap rates to Spain made for a worthwhile getaway! 

Boquerones in Madrid

As you've probably gathered, we are no strangers to Europe. It's one of the easiest destinations to travel to from Boston - both in terms of direct flights and award availability. It also happens to be full of our favorite cities. Spain reigns supreme in terms of our top list.

There's something about the Spanish lifestyle that we identify with. Spaniards are super laid back and extremely welcoming. They know their country is a draw for tourism and they embrace their visitors with open arms. We always feel welcome here - even with our broken Spanish.  That's why we're so excited to recap our trip the way we intended it: starting and ending with Madrid. 

Stay

On the first leg of our trip, we stayed at the Radisson Blu hotel in the El Barrio de las Lestras. The location was perfect for everything we wanted to see and within walking distance. We arrived on a red eye, completely exhausted, hours before check in. Luckily, the front desk was able to offer us a room upgrade for a room that was available. We seized the opportunity to nap! The upgrade came with breakfast, which was perfect. Not to mention, came with ample Nespresso coffee. Overall a very good value. 

On our return to Madrid, we stayed at the the Principal Madrid. Although much pricer than our first hotel, the Principal was pure perfection. Comfortable, sprawling rooms are well tended to and the decor is very well done. Although the layout of the hotel is odd, the bonus is that this boutique hotel has a rooftop terrace overlooking bustling Gran Via. 

See

There's so much to do and see in Madrid. First things first, you'll want to check out an art museum. Given our timing, we decided to forgo the Prado in favor of the Reina Sofia Museum, which seemed very manageable than the Prado. Plus, we were more interested in Picasso and Dalí than the Renaissance paintings (although Prado has a much wider range than that). 

Make it a priority to visit the Templo de Debod. This Egptytian temple was gifted to Spain as a thank you for helping to preserve some of Egypt's monuments. It's an interesting slice of history to explore in sprawling Madrid. 

From there, head to Gran Via. You can catch some sweet views from the top of the Gourmet Experience atop the Corte Inglés.  The views and the shopping are to die for. 

If your shopping habits err more on the luxury side, head to Salamanca. Here, you'll find every designer boutique known to man. Ask Tim about his time at Chanel. Such a trooper for returning three times with me! 

In terms of some less expensive outings (read free), head to the Retiro Park. There's a man-made lake with boats plus the Palacio de Cristal, which reflects the light in the most perfect way possible. You should also check out the cafes and entertainment in Plaza Mayor. Although the talent may ask for a donation, it's a worthwhile place to sit and enjoy a drink, 

Eat 

From neighborhood cafés like La Plateria to Michelin star restaurants, there’s no shortage of good eats in Madrid. Yet, the most unassuming places serve the tastiest tapas we’ve ever had. There’s something so cathartic about hopping from spot to spot, enjoying a beverage and a small bite. You really can’t go wrong in Madrid, but if you’re looking for our tried and true favorites, look no further:

For lunch, try one of the many bustling markets. Mercado San Anton was by far our favorite, although Mercado San Miguel is also quite tasty (albeit host to more foreigners and tourists). Starting from bottom floor, various stalls sell spices, meat, fish bread and other staples. Heading up to the second floor, the smell of delicious fried seafood and various other hot dishes will take you over. Grab a bite and a drink from any of the vendors and make your way over to the counter to indulge. The cured fish toasts were our favorite. Pickled herring anyone? After that, make sure you check out the roof deck on the third floor for a Madrid classic: gin and tonic. I don’t know what it is about Spain, but the gin tastes so much sweeter here.

If you are lucky enough to be in Madrid on a Sunday, you absolutely must head to La Latina. Madridleanos flock here on Sundays to spend time with friends and family, watching futbol and enjoying a pint or two. It’s such a festive environment, with locals and visitors alike. It really felt like we lived here for the afternoon. But Spain has a way of making you feel right at home.

Tim and I stumbled upon Bodega Lucio, where we enjoyed several glasses of the best damn Alberino we’ve ever tasted, with some complimentary tapas (yes, some places still do this!!!). Fresh octopus salad followed crispy pork bites that were out of this world. We also had some Jamon Iberico and manchego to round out our meal. Tim still dreams of this lunch and I can’t deny I do too! This is the type of simplicity and quality that draws us back for more.

Late and relaxed, dinner in Spain is an event – and one to be celebrated at that. Most restaurants open at 9 and many places take reservations either through The Fork or TripAdvisor.

Our first dinner was at La Tragantúa. The owner could not have been more gracious. He ensured everything was perfect for us, including paying close attention to Tim’s allergy. We started with a divine fois gras and ended with some of the yummiest mango mouse we’ve ever had. And Cava! Lots and lots of Cava.

The next night, we hit Gastromaquia in Chueca (one of our favorite neighborhoods). I kid you not when I say the crispy pig ears were by far one of the highlights of our entire trip. Order it and thank me later. Trust. Other dishes were also very good (tuna tartare, goat cheese to name a few) but the ears were a standout.

Our final recommendation in Madrid is La Cabrera. More of a cocktail bar, this place serves up some incredible libations. However, the food is equally as excellent. The steak tartare and the oxtail were incredible. The boquerones were some of the best we’ve ever had. The only drawback was the loud New Yorker two tables away. But what can we say? Can’t live with them, can’t live without them (looking at you DK). 

For more of our holiday in Spain, click here. 

Semana en España

For our one year anniversary, Tim and I travelled to Spain. Leveraging two weekends, one of which was MDW, we only took 7 days off work. Not to shabby! Additionally, by transferring Chase Sapphire points to Iberia (by way of British Airways), our all-in flight costs were $150 (fuel surcharge & taxes). Round of applause for the Mister. 

Although we did this trip in 12 days, this itinerary is designed for a full week. You can adapt it to your timeframe and interests. We're happy to provide some alternate recommendations - just ask!

As I already mentioned, we flew Iberia Airlines from Boston to Madrid. This route is direct and feels like a very quick 7 hours. From there, we designed our itinerary as follows: 

first stop: Madrid

We started our trip in the country's capital. What was intended to be three nights and three days ended up as four (more on that later). Three days provide plenty of time to see the sights and leave enough room to meander and tapas your way around town, but two could be enough to hit the highlights. You can certainly spend more time in Madrid and take some day trips to Toledo or Salamanca. Note that we also came back to Madrid for a day at the tail end of our trip as our flight was early in the morning.  

numero dos: Seville 

A lack of planning kept us from spending our first day in this beautiful city. Yes, believe it or not, even us expert planners mess up sometimes! The Copa del Rey brought Barcelona and Sevilla FC fans to town and all trains were completely sold out for the day. Sadly, we didn't book ours in advance and were unable to get a seat. After exploring every possible option, we ended up booking a same day flight to Seville using points. This not only helped us save money and time, but also kept us from losing a night of a prepaid hotel,

However, despite saving ourselves from having to get an extra hotel room, we missed the entire day in Seville that we had planned. We recommend spending at least two full days exploring this Andalusian paradise, but certainly more if time allows! We plan to come back and spend at least 2-3 more days exploring Seville. 

third stop: Ronda

Never heard of Ronda? We'll trust us when we tell you it's absolutely incredible. The town itself brings many a daytripper and tour group. However, just outside the town is a treasure trove of small hotels and vineyards. You'll certainly need a car to get around, but plan to spend at least two nights here. It's a short ride - just 1.5 hours from Seville! You can easily rent an automatic at the airport. We even got an upgrade with an English-speaking GPS. 

last stop: Valencia

Before returning to Madrid to fly home, we met Tim's parents in Valencia for 3 days. Valencia can very easily be swapped for Barcelona. We had both traveled to Barca during our study abroad, so we opted for a new city to explore. Each of these cities is easily accessible via short flight from Seville. This was a very leisurely stop for us at three days. We could've easily done two days in Valencia. 

We'll be posting in-depth posts on each of these Spanish locations, so stay tuned for more goodness! Until then, happy planning! 

72 hours in Florence

Some people go to the Cape or the Hamptons for a long weekend. Not us. We like to keep it interesting and with points to burn, we decided to book a long weekend to our once-upon-a-time home, Florence, Italy. Having spent 5 months living and studying in the city, we skipped the typical tourist attractions in lieu of our most nostalgic spots. Although this type of itinerary is not for everyone, it's safe to say we hit all of our favorite Florentine places. 

4 countries in 24 hours. That's how our whirlwind weekend in Florence began. Because we booked an award flight through Chase, we opted to fly Air France via CDG to Florence since there were no direct options available. Our connection timing was already aggressive, knowing we had to go through EU border patrol. However, due to some strong headwinds and airport congestion, our flight landed 45 minutes late. As a result, we missed our connecting flight. So did the other 50 passengers ahead of us. Long story short, we ended up on a detour through Amsterdam.

Day 1 

At long last, we arrived at our hotel by 5 - just in time to relax and get ready for balsamic steaks at Acqua al Due. Our hotel was in the perfect location, just off Piazza della Repubblica and steps to Piazza del Duomo. This historic landmark cum boutique hotel was the absolute perfect hub to all of our adventures. Just check out our view at Hotel Brunelleschi! 

Although we didn't get a lot of sightseeing in our first night, it was the perfect way to reintroduce ourselves to the city and rest up for a fun weekend. 

Day 2

The next morning, we headed to our favorite bar, across from our school,  Palazzo Rucellai for caffe and cornetti. We were happy to see that our favorite barista was still there!

TIP: Drink your coffee (a tiny, but potent ristretto shot) at the bar. It's cheaper since you won't get charged for sitting. Plus, it's inherently more italian. 

Afterward, we retraced our steps back to our respective apartments, Tim's on Via Gino Capponi and mine in Piazza D'Azeglio. All our study abroad friends will appreciate that everything still looks and feels the same. We even stopped by Supermercato Conad to find our favorite 2€ wine and Kinder Surpresas. Don't judge.

After working up an appetite, we headed to Mercato Centrale. Downstairs, you'll find various stalls selling fresh pasta, cheese, meats, produce and pantry supplies. The upstairs was completely redone since we last visited and we were so excited to see stations selling prepared foods like bistecca, pizza, pasta and more. We enjoyed a light lunch with some Chianti and headed back out to explore some more. 

TIP: There's also the San Lorenzo leather market right outside the food market, where you can find great wallets, gloves and knick knacks. They also have larger items like bags and scarves. Just come prepared to haggle with the vendors. It's fun!

En route to Oltrarno, we stopped at the Ferragamo Museum to ogle over his masterpieces. On display, we also found some of Andy Warhol's shoe ads and haute couture pieces from the likes of Viktor & Rolf and Issey Miyake. At a 6€ admission fee, this is a must-see on your next visit. 

We also made a pitstop at Gelateria La Carraia for some of our favorite gelato and quickly spotted Ginger the Beagle, whose owner, Georgette of Girl in Florence I fangirled hard core. If you don't already follow her Florentine adventures on Instagram, do so now and thank me later. 

After a long day of exploring, we headed to a 4-hour dinner at one of our favorite old spots, Il Latini. For 50€ per person, they bring out course after course of Tuscan deliciousness from crostini to mozzarella, pasta, bistecca and all the limoncello you can imagine. The best part of our dinner was making new friends. Christina and Bridgette, who turned out to know one of our friends! It truly is a small world out there. 

Day 3

There may be such a thing as too much limoncello at Il Latini, because we decided to sleep in the following morning before hitting a couple holiday markets. 

First stop was Santa Croce for the annual Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt (German Christmas Market). The sights and smells were to die from. From mulled wine to pretzels, there's something for everyone. Not to mention the plethora of gift options. Sadly for us, we only brought carryons, so space was slightly limited. Still, window shopping here was definitely a highlight. 

From there, we made our way across the Arno to Piazzale Michelangelo, for what is hands down our favorite view of this city. Midday, the crowds are smaller than the popular sunset hour, but with live music and a spectacular view, we were in heaven. 

Climbing down the hill, we headed to the Nataleperfile holiday fair set in historic Palazzo Corsini. We especially loved this market because the proceeds go towards helping terminally ill patients in Florence and the surrounding areas. For a full breakdown of the holiday markets about town, see this and this. 

We decided to stop by our favorite pub for a pre-dinner apertif. Although we couldn't sit out on the two-person balcony overlooking the Duomo, we were delighted to see JJ Cathedral decked out for Christmas. Lots of great memories here! If you see Neal Wikert anytime soon, ask him about this place. It's a great story ;)

For dinner, we found a new spot, Enoteca Conquinarius. This place was great! Our sommelier brought 6 different bottles of wine to compliment our dinner selections, telling us the story of where and how the grapes were grown. His approach was charming and unique, as well as self-proclaimed "democratic". He didn't want to lean us towards just one bottle without knowing the background of all of our matches. The food was also excellent, from the crostini misti to the beef cheeks and wild boar. We highly recommend it. you can even make a reservation on the Fork.  

Day 4

Before embarking on our long flight home by way of Zurich, we took the opportunity to visit the Terraza at la Rinascenete to take in 360 views of the city. That day was especially quiet at the cafe as the Florentines were busy voting on their referendum. Although the coffee here is substantially overpriced, the view was worth it. 

We also had our last "supper", which consisted of one of the most famous Florentine street foods - panini al lampredotto. For those who don't know, this is a messy sandwich made with stewed tripe. It was so good but a little heavy for a long haul flight. #NoRegrets. 

The flight home was far less eventful than on the way there. We stayed up the entire time to help keep ourselves on track for work the next day. This method worked great because we went to bed a normal hour and slept through the night. That's the beauty of such a short trip; your body doesn't have a chance to adapt to the new timezone and you can adjust back to EST without a problem. 

All in all, this trip was worth the hectic schedule. It was so nice to end 2016 on a positive and nostalgic note. Now the real quesiton is, where on earth are we going to go in 2017? 

Thankful for a Homecoming

This is the picture that started it all. A romance. A cultural awakening. A transformation into citizens of the world. A thirst for travel. At the time, Tim had only taken one flight: to Italy to embark on a 4 month study abroad in Florence. Although I had a few more flights under my belt, I had never been away from my family and had the palate of a 10 year old. 

Since then, Tim and I have traveled to 12 countries and countless states together. Our first return as husband and wife, almost nine years later, we are grateful to the city that helped shape who we are today. Infinitely more adventurous, both in travel and in appetite. 

2016 was full of heartbreak, but taught us to appreciate the moment. And although this will be a short trip, this homecoming serves as a reminder of where we’ve been and where we’re headed. And for that, we are eternally grateful.

Quando l’amico chiede, non v’è domain.